Chef John Manion at his Fulton Market restaurant El Che Steakhouse & Bar
If you’ve delved into the Chicago food scene in the past 25 years, you know the name John Manion. From Division Street hot spot Mas and its Southport sibling Otro Mas to Fulton Market pioneer La Sirena Clandestina and now nearby El Che Steakhouse & Bar, the veteran chef has been at the helm of some of the city’s great neighborhood restaurants in the past two decades. Whatever Manion concept you may have found yourself in over the years, you knew two things for certain: The cuisine was going to deliciously riff on Manion’s passion for South American flavors, and the scene would be sizzling. Manion’s latest play on the concept takes him back to the vicinity of his Wicker Park Mas days with Brasero (1709 W. Chicago Ave.), where the chef delivers a Midwestern-inflected take on his beloved South American culinary traditions.
Green curry garlic prawns with toasted coconut and pickled Fresno peppers
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Asked what he finds so inspiring about the cuisine, Manion notes, “When I was a kid we moved to Sao Paulo, and there are certain smells and tastes—picanha dripping cap fat onto charcoal, coxinha at the market, the complexities of moqueca—that made me want to cook for a living. Brasero feels like a return to these memories.” To that end, guests of the 120-seat restaurant can expect dishes like green curry garlic prawns; moqueca with shrimp, mussels and snapper; Brazilian fried quail (a version of Brazilian fried chicken, and Manion’s self-described fave dish on the menu); and signature feijoada made with slow-roasted beef shank. The menu is rounded out with hand-muddled caipirinhas and a wine list with 100 different bottles under $100 emphasizing emerging winemakers from South and Central America.
Slow-roasted Creekstone prime picanha
The food is the focus, but as with any Manion concept, atmosphere is essential. “In terms of design, or at least the story we’re trying to tell, there’s always a touchstone for me," the chef explains. "La Sirena was Buzios, 1964 (when Bardot visited the formerly sleepy fishing village); Che was Bueno Aires, now (or at least 2015). Brasero was Sao Paulo, 1978, which is extremely specific, but Siren Betty Design (sirenbetty.com) totally nailed it. The vibes, as they say, are immaculate.”
Brasero’s rhum Old-Fashioned features aged agricole rhum, bourbon, coffee demerara and tiki bitters finished with brûléed coconut.
The veteran chef is clearly having fun with the new concept. What’s he enjoying most? “Unquestionably working with the group of chefs—Adam Meyer, Zach Hertz and Melody Arnold—who have brought the menu to life. Working with people who are so passionate about bringing these sketches into the world is inspiring.”
Photography by: Food photos by Garrett Baumer; portrait by Huge Galdones
